Turkana Safari (2)
Read Turkana Safari (1)
The safaris to Lake Turkana however, are something different. It is about 7-12 days of walking, depending on how fast you walk and how many detours you take. Six ten liter gerry cans are carried for water, and are filled at every opportunity. In these Safaris, you are out there! There are no roads, no electricity, no tourists. On our trip in August of’98, we were told that we were the first white people in the Suguta Valley in over a year. Out there, you rely on yourself, your wit, and instinct. And you rely on Ismail. This is an area of the world that you don’t go into by yourself unless you have been in the bush for years. The Suguta Valley and Lake Turkana are described as one of if not the harshest terrains on the planet. It is described as the hottest and windiest place on earth. That should say a lot.
It is also one of the most fascinating places I have ever seen, hence my three journeys there and the plan for more. The above web page will give a better account than I want to put here, but this is a quick description. It is ancient volcanic, where in the dry season the temperatures can reach 50-55 Centigrade, 120-130 Fahrenheit, during the day. The wind, which is usually very consistent, kicks up at night and gusts at velocities of which I could only guess. Suffice it to say that we used numerous 10-15 pound rocks to hold our mosquito net/tent to the ground. Lake Turkana itself is an incredible sight. An ancient sea that gives off a jade glow at the right time of the day and year, is an anomaly out there in that incredible desert. Nile perch, the largest concentration of crocodiles in the world, it is amazing, truly amazing. And then there are the Turkana people. They are like the Masai in that they are very prideful, and have little or no interest in anything from the outside influencing their culture. Yet they are open and friendly and interested in who you are and what you are doing there. They are a wonderful, fun, yet reserved people. Between the Turkana people and being at the lake, it is an adventure like nothing I have ever done before.
Ismail as your guide will take you through this land. He and Lochuch, the man whose donkeys we use when we travel there, are from there and have done the journey countless times, mostly carrying goods to trade. Ismail is also reserved, but quick to laugh and give as much information about where you are and what is going on as you want to ask for, depending on you and what you want. He will lead you through the land, introduce you to the people, silently pay off warriors to guard you at night, make sure that you aren’t unknowingly wandering into a raid or skirmish between tribes, and get fresh cow, goat or camel milk for tea. He handles the cooking, although we almost always pitch in, because it’s fun. He makes sure you find water, arranges trades with people for goods and food, and makes sure the places that you spend the night are safe and comfortable, (well, as comfortable as can be in a volcanic desert!). Simply put, he takes you places you would have a hard time staying alive in yourself. And he does it because he loves it.
If this has indeed piqued your interest enough to want to know more, e-mail me at the address below, and I will get you in touch with Ismail. Keep in mind though, that the Turkana safari is not a picnic, this isn’t a guided stroll through the African bush with a cold beer waiting for you at the end of the day, (although the Oasis Lodge in Loyangolani, the end point of our journey, does have cold beer!). It is one of the most difficult things I have ever done in my life, and at times took everything I had to overcome the exhaustion and heat to keep on walking. And every single step was worth it!
Mike Mestrel (mike AT carmick DOT com)